In this era of 'levelling up,' can English Sparkling Wine earn the same respect as Champagne?
Move over Champagne, there's a new contender in town. English sparkling wine, once dismissed as a mere curiosity, is now causing a fizz in the wine world. With substantial investments and a growing number of skilled producers taking root in the South East of England, this up-and-coming industry – wine is the UK’s fastest growing agricultural sector - is beginning to turn heads and raise glasses.
For centuries, the Champagne region in France has been synonymous with the finest sparkling wines. Its terroir and traditional production methods have resulted in iconic bubbly that has delighted connoisseurs worldwide. However, recent developments suggest that English sparkling wine may be ready to challenge the Champagne crown.
It’s true that England’s wineries have experienced a surge in investment, reaching unprecedented levels. Producers who established their operations in the past decade are now on the verge of bottling their wines, with notable examples such as the esteemed Champagne houses Taittinger, with an estate in Kent, and Pommery in Hampshire. Such confidence from renowned producers further solidifies the credibility and potential of England’s green and pleasant lands.
But new vineyards take time to establish. The process from vine to glass takes at least five years, even longer to include reserve wines from previous harvests. Taittinger, for example, began planting Domaine Evremond in 2017, with their first harvest in 2023 and full bottling expected later this year. Pommery too, although the first champagne house to plant vines in England, won’t launch its first vintage until late 2024.
A lot of froth, or sparkle?
Nytimber, a pioneer in English sparkling wine since planting its first vines in West Sussex in 1988, has been producing exceptional quality bubbles for several years. Their dedication, growing reputation and success have paved the way for others to follow suit.
Chapel Down is currently the country’s largest wine maker with 10,000 acres. Their wines, which account for 33% of the English wine market have garnered international acclaim. Produced under the traditional Champagne method, their products have not only impressed critics but also won prestigious awards, further bolstering the reputation of English fizz on the global stage. Last year they reported an exceptional harvest and strong profitable growth, and with partnership deals secured as the official English cricket sponsor (knocking Veuve Clicquot off its pedestal) and Ascot races in 2024, the only way is up!
Victory against the French?
Despite a certain snobbery from across the Channel, sparkling wines from Gusbourne Estates recently trumped French champagne in a blind taste test on the streets of Reims. Gusbourne attributes the vast improvement of recent years to a dramatic change in grape composition. They report that “temperature increases have resulted in a higher sugar content, lower acidity and a riper flavour profile which wasn’t possible two decades ago”. Also claiming “2023 delivered near perfect conditions, thanks to a lack of frost and warm sunny weather across the south of England”.
But what is it about English sparkling wine that shows itself to be a worthy adversary? Quite simply it’s terroir, terroir, terroir! The unique combination of free-draining, limestone chalk soils in the South East, like those found in Champagne, and a temperate climate that mirrors historical Champagne weather conditions. These, together with expert winemaking techniques dating back to the late 16th century, deliver wines of elegance, complexity, and finesse, comparable to French counterparts.
Cause for celebration?
While it may be premature to crown English sparkling wine as the new Champagne, the industry is evolving with increasing investments and rising quality. Challenges faced by the Champagne industry, most significantly climate change, depleting stocks due to compromised harvests and increased competition from credible alternatives, all present opportunities for English sparkling wine to further establish itself, especially with drinkers who find Champagne budgets offputting.
Still the ‘poor relation’?
There is naturally some skepticism. From the CEO of Moet Hennessy drinks for example, who has stated that LVMH has “no intention of opening vineyards in England because they are incapable of challenging Champagne”. In particular he references the craftsmanship coming from the region, which is “impossible to replicate”, although he acknowledges that many wines from the south of England “are very good”.
So, next time you're in the mood for some bubbly, why not try an English sparkling wine? It might just surprise you with its undeniable charm, pale golden hue, elegant yet crisp taste and hint of decadence, offering a fresh perspective on celebratory traditions.
Despite the bittersweet taste of global warming,“cheers to the rise of the new contender”.